Clueboard 2x1800 Kit
Clueboard 2x1800 is a keyboard with dual numpads in a compact 1800 layout. It is only 1.5u wider than a standard 100% keyboard.
- April Fools 2018 - Initial Release
A Teensy 2.0++ powers the Clueboard 2x1800. One should have been included with your kit. Support has been merged into QMK Firmware, you can use the following make command to build the default firmware:
Status LED's (Num Lock, Caps Lock, Scroll Lock)
There are three status LED's on the right hand side of the board, these are designed for 5mm LED's. You will also need appropriate resistors to go with the LED's. Your kit should have come with red LED's and corresponding 220 ohm resistors.
The PCB does not directly support backlighting, but there are pads for LED's. You can use these to wire up specific switches or the entire board using hand-wiring techniques. Pins C5 and C6 have been exposed for this purpose.
The PCB does not directly support underlighting, but if you wish to connect RGB strips you can use pins C5 and/or C6 for this purpose.
You can make use of dualphony audio by soldering a speaker between the F4 and F5 keys. You can pick up an appropriate speaker from Mouser.
There are a lot of pins available if you want to add hardware to your keyboard. The pins that are not marked with an X on the PCB can be used for any purpose you want.
- D0/D1 (i2c/TWC)
If you ever assembled a keyboard from a kit this one is very similar to other keyboard kits. Assemble everything in this order:
- Solder the standoffs to the bottom of the PCB, so that they hold the PCB off the bottom plate.
- You can use an ordinary soldering iron at ordinary temperatures.
- Spot solder on one side of the standoff
- Move the iron to the other side of the standoff and solder there
- Run the solder around the entire edge of the connector to form a nice bead around the standoff
- Use a screwdriver or other tool to hold the standoff flat and remove the soldering iron
- Blow on the standoff to help cool it down.
- It will take 5-10 seconds for the standoff to cool enough. Do not move anything during this time or the standoff may end up crooked.
- Cut the 0.1" header pins to length and put them into place on the bottom side of the PCB. It doesn't matter which way the long pins go. Do not solder yet.
- Place the Teensy 2.0++ into place. The USB should nestle into the cutout on the edge of the PCB, and the RESET button should be accessible through the hole in the PCB.
- Solder 4 pins to the teensy, one in each corner.
- Holding the Teensy in place, flip the PCB over.
- Solder all the teensy pins to the PCB.
- Flip the PCB again and solder the remaining PCB pins.
- Using diagonal cutters trim the long pins on the Teensy. You may want to reflow these pins afterward.
- Install and solder all the diodes. They should be placed on the bottom of the PCB.
- All the vertical diodes have the line pointing North.
- Most of the horizontal diodes have the line pointing West.
- Flash the teensy with the default firmware and use tweezers to test some switch locations.
- Use a small amount of electrical tape to cover the diode pins for the keypad + and Enter keys on the right side of the keyboard. Otherwise the stabilizer will short these together.
- If you use a 4u or 7u spacebar, use a small amount of electrical tape to cover the diode pins on the bottom row.
- Install and solder the LED resistors. They should be placed on the bottom of the PCB.
- Install and solder the Status LED's. The long leg goes to the North.
- Solder the long leg on the LED, while holding it fully seated.
- Make sure that all 3 LED's are fully seated and straight. You may need to heat the long leg to let you adjust positions.
- Trim the LED pins to length.
- Solder the remaining LED pins.
- Install the stabilizers
- Install switches into the pcb.
- Place the switch/pcb assembly on a table with the pins up.
- Inspect every switch to make sure the pins go through the holes.
- Solder the switches
- Put the bottom plate into place and secure with the provided phillips screws.